I can tell Nengah is very excited to be visiting her family and friends in Nusapenida, she has picked out clothes for Theo and I to bring and although we agreed to leave around 8am at 7:15 she is already here helping me get Theo out of the bath and dressed for our trip. She has been up since 4 having already gone to the market in Denpasar to buy fresh fruit and flowers for tonight's ceremony.
We take the speedy boat from Sanur (rather then the cheaper but three times slower public boat from Padang Bei). We catch the boat just north of Bali Beach and after wading through a few feet of water we climb on board and are off. Somewhere I heard Balinese people have a fear of large bodies of water, after taking this speed boat I understand why. The currents in Bali are pretty extreme and the surf is good and thick. Our little speed boat, about the size of a city bus with seating for 24 on the inside rocks and smacks the water.
I nearly hit my head on the seat in front of me a number of times, Nengah holds Theo tightly between us (he manages to sleep through the trip) and her friend in the seat ahead of us clutches Nengah's arm and winces with each smacking jolt. People our crying, gasping and praying all around us. The boat crew, handsome young Balinese men in beanie hats, board shorts, often tattooed and a few in Bob Marley gear, push the throttle seemingly oblivious to the fear of their passengers. Some even climb back and forth on the boat deck, spider man style while we watch from below through the windows. I think of my brother.
After 30 minutes of seasick angst we land safely on the island and I can tell immediately Nusapenida is not like Bali. The trees are wilder and healthier, no one is selling t-shirts or asking is you need transport, the air is fresh and looking around I see 4 rugged Russians with backpacks and tents, everyone else is local.
Nengah's house is in the very middle of the island up twisty thin roads that scale the mountainous terrain. We arrive before lunch and Theo and I watch as Nengah and her mom prepare lunch over an open flame in their semi-outdoor kitchen. The lunch is delicious, tempe, rice, fresh green beans seasoned with spices and a salty veggie soup. Nengah makes dozens of offerings, folding and sewing leaves with sticks before adding the proper blend of flowers, rice, incense and fruit to each.
Her father makes the largest offering of fruit, cookies and rice snacks stacked high on an offering stand (looks a bit like a cake stand but in wood and more solid). Theo spends the day playing with Nengah's youngest brother and his friends, its so great to see him playing with other little boys and they are so careful and gentle with him making sure he is included in the fun and keeping him from eating rocks or falling off steps.
Her father makes the largest offering of fruit, cookies and rice snacks stacked high on an offering stand (looks a bit like a cake stand but in wood and more solid). Theo spends the day playing with Nengah's youngest brother and his friends, its so great to see him playing with other little boys and they are so careful and gentle with him making sure he is included in the fun and keeping him from eating rocks or falling off steps.
